How to Spend Two Weeks in Belize
Two weeks in Belize will give you the perfect amount of time to see all of the best bits of the country. From the ancient Mayan ruins at the ATM Caves and Xunantunich, to the blonde-sand beaches of Placencia and Caye Caulker, my comprehensive guide is going to tell you exactly how to spend 14 days in Belize.
Belize is the 48th smallest country in the world — around the size of Israel, or Maryland in the U.S. — so is easily explored in a short amount of time. This country is a treasure trove for both history buffs and nature lovers alike. Belize is home to hundreds of ancient ruins, including around 33 Mayan archaeological sites in various states of excavation and disrepair. The country is also full of tons of wildlife, including pumas, jaguars, monkeys, and birds — and an impressive 50 percent of Belize is protected by national parks and environmental laws.
The country has a distinctly undiscovered feel about it, making it a great off-the-beaten-path destination. It’s not the cheapest place to travel in Central America, it doesn’t have the edgy feel of Guatemala, or the eco-tourism scene of Costa Rica, but it does have a fantastic culture and a vibrant food scene.
Due to its history as British Honduras, English is the official language of Belize, spoken by 62.9% of the population, but the vast majority of people are multilingual, with Spanish, Creole, Maya, German and Garifuna all having a place in Belizean language. It’s this mix of culture that gives the country such an interesting dialect, as well as an open-minded and welcoming atmosphere.
Public Transport in Belize: Yes or No?
There’s not much public transport in Belize, other than the infamous chicken buses — old American school buses that run from one town to the next, stopping at every house along the way (or at least that’s what it feels like).
They are definitely an experience and in many ways, an important part of the culture in Belize, as locals rely on them for their day to day transport (cars are a luxury). But chicken buses in Belize are crammed full of people, have zero legroom, and are not fun with luggage. If you haven’t read about my nightmare trip from San Ignacio to Placencia yet, then now might be a good time to do so.
Taxis or private drivers can be hired but are usually expensive, especially for multi-hour journeys. It’s for these reasons that I actually recommend hiring a car. If you did read the article I linked to in the previous paragraph, you already know why I’m suggesting this. Let’s just say I learned my lesson from my first visit to Belize, so decided to rent a car for my second.
What to Know About Money in Belize
The Belize dollar, or BZD, is the official currency of Belize. The official exchange rate is permanently set at 2 Belize dollars to 1 U.S. dollar, which makes currency conversion calculations particularly simple.
Honestly, though? I personally wouldn’t bother with exchanging money, as U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere in the country. Meanwhile, the Belize dollar can only be exchanged within Belize and at border towns in Mexico and Guatemala, so you run the risk of (cough) leaving the country with Belizean dollars you can neither exchange nor spend.
(I’m not saying that’s the reason why I planned a return trip to Belize, but I’m also not not saying it.)
Cash is still king in Belize, although Visa is accepted at most large businesses (only a very limited number of businesses accept MasterCard and American Express). ATMs can be unreliable and expensive and official exchanges seem to be non-existent, so local vendors on the street are often the only available means to change money.
And so, my advice is to take enough USD to get you through your trip, but obviously split it up into different bags or pockets for added safety.
How to Spend Two Weeks in Belize
My two-week itinerary is going to take you to all of the best spots in Belize.
We’re going to start with an optional night in Belize City, then spend 3 or 4 nights in my beloved San Ignacio, exploring ancient ruins and underground caves.
A drive down the scenic Hummingbird Highway comes next, before staying overnight in an incredible lodge in the rainforest.
The next day, a lunch stop in Hopkins is followed by a visit to Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve: world-famous for its jaguar population.
Next up: spend 2 nights in Placencia, getting to know the south of Belize, before heading back up to Belize City to catch a ferry to Caye Caulker.
And then, I’m going to recommend spending a whopping six nights in Caye Caulker. It may seem a long time but trust me, you still won’t want to leave!
With epic snorkeling, delicious food and laid back locals, Caye Caulker is paradise on earth. Locals say they never get sick because there is never bad weather. And if you’ve read Never Ending Footsteps for any amount of time, you’ll know that’s exactly what I need! (I catch food poisoning on practically every trip I take.)
Fill your time on Caye Caulker walking stray dogs, flying over the Great Blue Hole, visiting neighbouring Ambergris Caye and living the local motto of Go Slow. Return to Belize City to make sure you get back in time for your flight home the next day and explore the colonial charm of the former capital city.
Day One: Arrive in Belize City
If you’re arriving by air, the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport is only about 20 minutes from Belize City. If you’re coming overland, you’ll arrive at the dusty Belize City bus station. No matter your form of transport, if you’re arriving late, spend the night in Belize City and enjoy the dilapidated buildings and colonial charm.
But if your flight or bus arrives in the day, head straight to San Ignacio, just a two-hour drive away by car.
On your way, make a stop at the Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center. I know, normally I am not at all a fan of zoos, but this one is different. Belize Zoo, in fact, only houses animals from Belize, usually rescued from road accidents or the illegal pet trade. The enclosures are a generous size and comparable to a natural habitat, and there are witty signs all over the place that give you a first taste of the wonderful Belizean humor.
You could also visit the nearby Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary for a chance to spot some wild animals.
Where to stay in Belize City
Villa Boscardi has everything you need for an overnight stop, it’s located outside of the hustle and bustle of central Belize City on a quiet, leafy, and safe street. Everything in Belize City center is fortified with barbed wire, so it’s nice to stay just outside the main area. The rooms are spacious and clean with lots of beautiful touches, and there’s a great pool and communal cooking area. The free breakfast is also pretty special and offers a great introduction to the food in Belize!
Exploring Cahal Pech: we had the entire complex to ourselves!
Day Two: Ruin it Up in San Ignacio!
Now, if you’ve read my site for any amount of time, you’ll know that I’m not much of a fan of ruins. I was surprised, then, when I made my way to San Ignacio and was so impressed with its nearby Mayan ruins.
(Maybe I am, just, actually a fan of ruins?)
The first port of call for the day is taking a ferry over to the Xunantunich ruins, just twenty minutes from San Ignacio. This Mayan ceremonial center was inhabited between AD 700 to 1000, and is seriously impressive for such a rarely-visited spot. Climb to the top of the 133-foot tall El Castillo, the second tallest temple in all of Belize, and spot the intricate sun god masks that decorate the walls. While I was sat up there, I could hear howler monkeys growling in the distance, which only added to the other-worldly vibes.
If you have time in the afternoon, I recommend either heading to Cahal Pech in San Ignacio, or taking a two-hour (4×4) drive to the remote ancient Mayan city of Caracol. Abandoned in 900 CE, it’s thought that Caracol once spread over 200 square kilometers and only around 1% of the ruins have been excavated[!].
In the evening, head to the Guava Limb for dinner. The seating area may look as though it’s being reclaimed by the Belizean jungle, but the food takes its inspiration from every corner of the world. They have a farm-to-table ethos, using fresh ingredients to create authentic and international cuisine (the Thai noodles are amazing). Yeah, there’s a reason why it’s ranked as the number one restaurant in San Ignacio.
Where to stay in San Ignacio
One of our favorite spots to stay in Belize is Pine Ridge Lodge. Just outside of San Ignacio, Pine Ridge is an off-grid lodge located right on the river. Step out from one of the beautifully decorated cabins to sit by the river or go for a walk on a lovely trail leading to waterfalls. Neil, the owner, is more than happy to help you out with local recommendations and his two dogs will keep you company on the trails!
Day Three: Visit the ATM Caves From San Ignacio
Start your day with an American style or Belizean breakfast at Pop’s Restaurant. The traditional Belizean breakfast consists of fry jacks, eggs, beans, and chicken and is something you have to try at least once in your two weeks in Belize — it’s seriously good.
And then it’s time to do what is, in my opinion, the absolute best activity in Belize.
It’s time to take a trip to Actun Tunichil Muknal.
The cave is ranked one of the top ten caves in the world by National Geographic, and it’s time for you to find out why.
On your trip to the ATM cave, you’ll hike through tropical jungle, cross through rivers, and squeeze under rocks, before finally coming to the ancient sacrificial remains of the Mayan, located deep within the caves.
The ATM cave is protected so you have to take a tour in order to visit, with a guide who is licensed by the Department of Ecology. There’s only a couple of dozen of these in the country, so spaces are limited. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed to protect the artifacts, so I can’t even show you what it looks like. You’ll just have to trust me that it’s incredible.
It’s an Indiana Jones-style adventure, but you do get hard hats and torches — which is slightly safer than the terrifying candlelit experience of Semuc Champney in Guatemala!
You can book your tour when you arrive in San Ignacio, but I recommend booking online and in advance before you arrive, to make sure you get a spot.
That evening, visit the iconic Marie Sharp’s Tourist Center in San Ignacio for a culinary class on Belizean cuisine. You are absolutely guaranteed to encounter Marie Sharp’s hot sauces while visiting Belize (I bought them as souvenirs for friends while I was there!), and here, you’ll learn how to cook with it, rustling up classic local dishes, like — you know it! — rice and beans and chicken stew.
Day Four: Take a Day Trip From San Ignacio to Guatemala and the Ancient Ruins of Tikal
Taking a day trip to Tikal from San Ignacio is easy to do, particularly if you have your own transport. Tikal is located just two hours away from San Ignacio, deep within the Maya Biosphere Reserve. It was once one of the most prosperous cities of the Mayan Classic Period, and the largest ancient civilization in Mesoamerica. You can find tours in San Ignacio offering trips to Tikal, or like us, just navigate the border yourself and drive to the ancient city.
Tikal covers an area of 575 square kilometers and dates back to 1000 BC, but it wasn’t a thriving city until much later, around 600 AD. Tikal is thought to have had around 100,000 residents at its height, including a school and even a hospital.
Although it was an advanced city, sacrifice was still thought of as an honor, and the population mysteriously disappeared completely by 900 AD. Climb the pyramids, explore the vast jungle, and watch out for wildlife like howler monkeys and toucans.
Tikal really is worth the effort, and Guatemala is another wonderful country to visit, but if you want to stay in Belize there are plenty of other things to do. Some fantastic things to do in and around San Ignacio include the Green Iguana Conservation Project, the Belize Botanic Gardens and the Rio Frio cave and pools.
The inland Blue Hole of Belize
Day Five: Visit Blue Hole National Park and Stay in a Rainforest Retreat
On day five take to the beautiful Hummingbird Highway and head south through Belize’s dense interior. Stop off at the Lamanai chocolate company to take a tour and learn the Mayan art of chocolate making. Then visit St. Herman’s Cave: you can either take the mile hike into the caves or go caving and cave tubing with a local guide.
Also located within St. Herman’s Blue Hole National Park is the Inland Blue Hole, where you can take a refreshing dip in the small lake and spot wildlife in the surrounding jungle. Or if you’re feeling brave, rappel down a waterfall at the nearby Dreaming Giant waterfalls.